Native Sons
One of the biggest joys of travel is discovering local cuisine cooked by locals. Barbados, like many islands in the Caribbean, has embraced farm-to-table dining. You get what grows and swims best, prepared with a savvy understanding of the island’s culture and history. Our two chefs both learned their craft in the Barbados hospitality education system and honed their skills in various well-known and respected restaurant kitchens across the island. Now, they have arrived at the top of their game, overseeing Champers and Lone Star, two of the most acclaimed and well-located establishments on Barbados. Before scanning the menu, visitors would be wise to ask about the specials because these guys know what makes Bajan cuisine special. They've lived it and they love it. Native sons, indeed.
— By Timothy Dugdale and Kylee Ross
— Photography: Kenneth Theysen
Donavan Lopez wanted to be one of three things when he was a kid: a professional cricket player, an accountant or a chef. He did eventually play cricket for Team Barbados at the junior level, he is a chef, and some of the responsibilities of executive chef push him into the realm of accounting.
Lopez began his career studying at the PomMarine through The Hospitality Institute and kicked off his professional journey as assistant cook at Kings Beach Hotel. He went on to work in some of the premier hotels and restaurants on the island—Sandy Lane and Whispers on the Bay, to name a few. When a position opened up at Lone Star, then-chef Dean Butler offered Lopez a role as chef de partie. Within seven months, Lopez was promoted to junior sous-chef. “I wasn’t looking for it, but I just embraced it with both arms,” Lopez says. From there, Lopez moved up the ranks over the course of five years to hold positions as sous-chef, senior sous-chef, executive sous-chef and, now, executive chef.
Birth year: 1975.
Birth place: Bridgetown, Saint Michael.
Birth country: Barbados.
Favourite Bajan dish: Cou-cou and flying fish.
Favourite drink: Gin and tonic.
Favourite food trend: Raw food.
Favourite song to cook to: You'll Be in My Heart by Phil Collins.
Best meal of your life: 34 Mayfair in London—tortellini, cèpe mushrooms, shaved black truffle.
Favourite local ingredient: Sweet potatoes.
A chef who inspires you: Hard to choose one—Jonathan Wright, Stuart Ralston, Alfredo Batson, Oviston Edwards.
On a deserted island, which 3 ingredients would you bring? Water, fresh fish, salt.
Your comfort food: Pickles.
What would your last meal be? Pudding and souse.
Pedro Newton began to cook as a young boy. He remembers his mother leaving cooking instructions for him, outlining tasks to complete before she got home from work.
The first food he baked independently was Christmas pudding (also referred to as cake). He remembers his mother cutting herself a slice and giving him her stamp of approval on taste and texture, but stern disapproval on his initiative to use her oven without supervision. Newton went on to enroll in The Hospitality Institute as a part-time student while he worked as a carpenter to help his mother support their family. He started his first job in the restaurant industry at Shakey’s Pizza. After five years there, “I wanted to move on,” Newton says. “I just wanted to do better.” He moved on to Brown Sugar and worked his way through the kitchen for 10 years. When he was ready for his next challenge, Newton accepted a position as junior pastry chef at The Royal Pavilion (now known as Fairmont Royal Pavilion). “I actually think that was my launching pad,” Newton says. He was hired as the sous-chef at Lone Star and later started his own business selling flying fish to premier hotels and restaurants around the island. When he was ready to re-enter the restaurant industry as a chef, he held the position of sous-chef at La Mer Restaurant and, finally, executive chef at Champers.
Birth year: 1968.
Birth place: Packers, Christ Church.
Birth country: Barbados.
Favourite Bajan dish: Pumpkin fritters.
Favourite drink: Ginger beer.
Favourite food trend: Asian fusion.
Favourite song to cook to: Stiff Necked Fools by Bob Marley & The Wailers.
Best meal of your life: Miso cod served with
sticky rice.
Favourite local ingredient: Flying fish.
A chef who inspires you: Graham Licorish, Barbados. Marcus Wareing, United Kingdom.
On a deserted island, which 3 ingredients would you bring? Watermelon, sweet potato, fish (any type).
Your comfort food: Cassava pone, an end slice served warm.
What would your last meal be? A slice of white chocolate cheesecake with guava sorbet.
